I’m glad to hear that you visited this marvelous place with its giant trees that beggar my brain. And also glad to hear that the Travelites are still kicking around. You definitely traveled the back roads of our state.
Somehow I missed this post. Now I want to visit Congaree! I spied the turtle clinging to the log & it made me sad as it appeared to be a box turtle, a land dweller. Poor fella, I hope he was able to hang on until he could reach higher ground.
The first time I went to Congaree the thing that most surprised me was the number of champion trees. My next surprise was being there, by chance, during synchronized firefly season and having the opportunity to stay until dark to see them. My final surprise was coming home and seeing I had synchronized fireflies in my own back woods. Congress is a magical place.
This sounds wonderful. Is there a difference between a national park and a national wildlife reserve? Because Kansas has several national wildlife reserves, and you have it on your list is having no national parks.
I should’ve said refuge. I looked it up. They serve the same function, but what’s allowed in a refuge is different than what’s allowed in a park. For instance, you can’t camp in a refuge because its intent is to restore habitat.
Land protection distinctions are interesting (and this makes me want to know more). I think of Adirondack State Park, which is huge, and immense portions are truly WILD. I came to it from the West, a bit arrogant thinking what can these small mountains be? Well. They kicked my butt. People die there practically every year going out unprepared or, prepared, hitting forces of fierce cold, wind, and deep bottomless woods. I spent an afternoon trying to get back to the mountain slab after missing the cairn out of the gully, wading through low scrub so thick and old that our feet were not touching ground, just swimming through bramble. it was founded just 20 years after Yellowstone, the state protecting water and timber resources but also wilderness. Check this out: “largest publicly protected area in the contiguous United States, greater in size than Yellowstone, Everglades, Glacier, and Grand Canyon National Park combined. The boundary of the Park encompasses approximately 6 million acres, nearly half of which belongs to all the people of New York State and is constitutionally protected to remain “forever wild” forest preserve. The remaining half of the Park is private land which includes settlements, farms, timber lands, businesses, homes, and camps.” And you can see John Brown’s farm from the top of the ski jump in Lake Placid. Surreal.
Happy you got to see it and the floodplain in full form. I’m fortunate to live close to it, and it’s a goal for this year to study John Cely’s hand drawn map and get off trail in Congaree. A walk with him to see some of the big big big trees is a special day.
Nostalgia. There were interviews and discussions on this very topic today on NPR’s “One-A.” I have nostalgia for Congaree. That’s the word for the day, sentimental but a sense of something lost that’s not with you anymore. If I could hold Congaree in my hands forever, I would be complete. In hold it in my heart and memories until I can visit again. There’s one lob that arches in a long curve at the back of the boardwalk. Wowzers. I’ll have to search for the picture of me standing beside it looking up. So fascinating to see your photos and read your post, a treat. Thank you.
Hi Janisse, I was first introduced to you when a friend recommended "Ecology of a Cracker Childhood" and I was captivated by your writing. Now that I've read this essay, Congaree is on my must visit list. Love the photos you included!
I was amused at the mention of the "Travelite Retreat" in conservative rural South Carolina. Thirty-five years ago I made a similar discovery when I relocated to Tidewater Virginia. There was a local resort called "White Tail Park" less than five miles from where I lived. A co-worker friend lived within sight of the White Tail Park sign directing visitors off the four-lane, down a winding country road. My friend once said that "Cathereen would shoot me if I ever went there." A local television once featured the Park on the evening news and it was the center of conversation as my co-workers congregated around the pool table. Cathereen's husband commented that there was nothing to see on the broadcast, but a 'bunch of flabby men filmed from the waist up." Another co-worker chimed in "Visitors were welcome, but they needed to take off all their clothes if they planned to stay more than thirty minutes." (Full disclosure) I never visited White Tail, with or without clothes.
I forgot to mention that I once saw a personalized Virginia license that read "NUDE OK" at a local convenience store close to White Tail Park and another time in the same area, there was Virginia tag that read "OLD FRT"
It's been a long time since I've visited Congaree National Park, then a national monument, I think. It is truly a wonderful place and I loved revisiting it through your piece.
But the addendum tugged at me: "To get to Congaree, I passed through some of the poorest country I’ve ever seen. And it appears to me that rural South Carolina is being logged to nubs and bones." Even though I've not lived in South Carolina since 2015, I remember driving the backroads from Clemson to Charleston, to do presentations or attend workshops. There are difficult places to see and consider them as part of our state at the time.
When I was there last March, it was about as dry as it gets (within normal cycles) according to the ranger I asked. Perhaps the most striking element for me was an area with lots of huge, degrading cypress stumps--each one with a sculptural and colorful character all its own--I think that was a bit deeper in, on the mile-or-so loop trail off the back/low side of the boardwalk.
Congaree was a great antidote/balance for me in comparison to the Okefenokee, where despite the (? 70 ? 90?) years of second growth, it was very hard for me to not feel and mourn what was lost when it was virtually entirely logged out in the late 1800s/early 1900s. Though the abandoned local visitor center on the upper stretch of the Suwanee (just after it’s birthed from the swamp) which has become an planned “world’s largest bat house” thanks to LEED-inspired roof vents was a fun sidenote!
It’s not in the state park. It’s outside the swamp, just on the outskirts of Fargo (south edge of town) immediately after the road crosses the river If you’re headed north after coming out of the swamp from the state park. What I heard was that some local booster had the idea of building a visitor center/gateway to the Okefenokee, but there just wasn’t enough tourist traffic to keep it open. It was built to LEED standards, and the bats took advantage of the roof vents to take up residence after it was abandoned. It’s totally closed down and boarded up, but the parking lot, and I think a little riverside trail, is still accessible. It was one person‘s tale, which included the “worlds largest bathhouse“ tagline; I think it was a ranger in the park, when I asked about other spots they recommend I take a peek at on my way out, but I really don’t remember for sure.
It’s so sad how the state abandoned that building- they made so many budget cuts that they stopped manning the building with park staff and expected to keep it open with volunteers. That shows how little state government in Atlanta knows, understands, or cares about little rural places like Fargo. People there have to work for a living at mostly meager wages and don’t have time to volunteer on the scale needed to keep it open. And the building had some amazing local history about Fargo and the Swamp (I’m originally from Fargo and Clinch County).
I hope not. I have visited Stephen Foster SP twice and it was lovely. I particularly remember a canoe trip to Billy’s Island and the visitor center at the State Park.
I’m glad to hear that you visited this marvelous place with its giant trees that beggar my brain. And also glad to hear that the Travelites are still kicking around. You definitely traveled the back roads of our state.
Somehow I missed this post. Now I want to visit Congaree! I spied the turtle clinging to the log & it made me sad as it appeared to be a box turtle, a land dweller. Poor fella, I hope he was able to hang on until he could reach higher ground.
You were right near me. My husband actually worked on the SC champion tree project and spent a lot of time in the CNP.
It's supposed to be amazing when the fireflies/lightning bugs are mating.
The first time I went to Congaree the thing that most surprised me was the number of champion trees. My next surprise was being there, by chance, during synchronized firefly season and having the opportunity to stay until dark to see them. My final surprise was coming home and seeing I had synchronized fireflies in my own back woods. Congress is a magical place.
This sounds wonderful. Is there a difference between a national park and a national wildlife reserve? Because Kansas has several national wildlife reserves, and you have it on your list is having no national parks.
I should’ve said refuge. I looked it up. They serve the same function, but what’s allowed in a refuge is different than what’s allowed in a park. For instance, you can’t camp in a refuge because its intent is to restore habitat.
Land protection distinctions are interesting (and this makes me want to know more). I think of Adirondack State Park, which is huge, and immense portions are truly WILD. I came to it from the West, a bit arrogant thinking what can these small mountains be? Well. They kicked my butt. People die there practically every year going out unprepared or, prepared, hitting forces of fierce cold, wind, and deep bottomless woods. I spent an afternoon trying to get back to the mountain slab after missing the cairn out of the gully, wading through low scrub so thick and old that our feet were not touching ground, just swimming through bramble. it was founded just 20 years after Yellowstone, the state protecting water and timber resources but also wilderness. Check this out: “largest publicly protected area in the contiguous United States, greater in size than Yellowstone, Everglades, Glacier, and Grand Canyon National Park combined. The boundary of the Park encompasses approximately 6 million acres, nearly half of which belongs to all the people of New York State and is constitutionally protected to remain “forever wild” forest preserve. The remaining half of the Park is private land which includes settlements, farms, timber lands, businesses, homes, and camps.” And you can see John Brown’s farm from the top of the ski jump in Lake Placid. Surreal.
Happy you got to see it and the floodplain in full form. I’m fortunate to live close to it, and it’s a goal for this year to study John Cely’s hand drawn map and get off trail in Congaree. A walk with him to see some of the big big big trees is a special day.
Nostalgia. There were interviews and discussions on this very topic today on NPR’s “One-A.” I have nostalgia for Congaree. That’s the word for the day, sentimental but a sense of something lost that’s not with you anymore. If I could hold Congaree in my hands forever, I would be complete. In hold it in my heart and memories until I can visit again. There’s one lob that arches in a long curve at the back of the boardwalk. Wowzers. I’ll have to search for the picture of me standing beside it looking up. So fascinating to see your photos and read your post, a treat. Thank you.
If you can find that photo, send it to me. "If I could hold Congaree in my hands forever, I would be complete." WOWZERS!!!
I just posted a link to the draft version. Hope it works. I don't want to publish it outside of this group,.
I was able to see it. Thank you!
https://kathystilwell.substack.com/p/1d643b60-3ea1-44ed-9a8e-b75e701ab1d6
I like how you labeled the goldenseal and the dogwoods.
You are absolutely correct that rural SC is being logged to nubs and bones.
I’m so happy you got there. It is truly worth a trip in every season. She embodies a kind of ancient wisdom of kith and kin - small and personal.
Hi Janisse, I was first introduced to you when a friend recommended "Ecology of a Cracker Childhood" and I was captivated by your writing. Now that I've read this essay, Congaree is on my must visit list. Love the photos you included!
Thank you, Donna. I do hope you get to see those trees.
I was amused at the mention of the "Travelite Retreat" in conservative rural South Carolina. Thirty-five years ago I made a similar discovery when I relocated to Tidewater Virginia. There was a local resort called "White Tail Park" less than five miles from where I lived. A co-worker friend lived within sight of the White Tail Park sign directing visitors off the four-lane, down a winding country road. My friend once said that "Cathereen would shoot me if I ever went there." A local television once featured the Park on the evening news and it was the center of conversation as my co-workers congregated around the pool table. Cathereen's husband commented that there was nothing to see on the broadcast, but a 'bunch of flabby men filmed from the waist up." Another co-worker chimed in "Visitors were welcome, but they needed to take off all their clothes if they planned to stay more than thirty minutes." (Full disclosure) I never visited White Tail, with or without clothes.
LOL, Greg. So funny.
I forgot to mention that I once saw a personalized Virginia license that read "NUDE OK" at a local convenience store close to White Tail Park and another time in the same area, there was Virginia tag that read "OLD FRT"
It's been a long time since I've visited Congaree National Park, then a national monument, I think. It is truly a wonderful place and I loved revisiting it through your piece.
But the addendum tugged at me: "To get to Congaree, I passed through some of the poorest country I’ve ever seen. And it appears to me that rural South Carolina is being logged to nubs and bones." Even though I've not lived in South Carolina since 2015, I remember driving the backroads from Clemson to Charleston, to do presentations or attend workshops. There are difficult places to see and consider them as part of our state at the time.
When I was there last March, it was about as dry as it gets (within normal cycles) according to the ranger I asked. Perhaps the most striking element for me was an area with lots of huge, degrading cypress stumps--each one with a sculptural and colorful character all its own--I think that was a bit deeper in, on the mile-or-so loop trail off the back/low side of the boardwalk.
Congaree was a great antidote/balance for me in comparison to the Okefenokee, where despite the (? 70 ? 90?) years of second growth, it was very hard for me to not feel and mourn what was lost when it was virtually entirely logged out in the late 1800s/early 1900s. Though the abandoned local visitor center on the upper stretch of the Suwanee (just after it’s birthed from the swamp) which has become an planned “world’s largest bat house” thanks to LEED-inspired roof vents was a fun sidenote!
Jim! I didn't know about the bats at Stephen Foster. And that wonderful building is abandoned?
It’s not in the state park. It’s outside the swamp, just on the outskirts of Fargo (south edge of town) immediately after the road crosses the river If you’re headed north after coming out of the swamp from the state park. What I heard was that some local booster had the idea of building a visitor center/gateway to the Okefenokee, but there just wasn’t enough tourist traffic to keep it open. It was built to LEED standards, and the bats took advantage of the roof vents to take up residence after it was abandoned. It’s totally closed down and boarded up, but the parking lot, and I think a little riverside trail, is still accessible. It was one person‘s tale, which included the “worlds largest bathhouse“ tagline; I think it was a ranger in the park, when I asked about other spots they recommend I take a peek at on my way out, but I really don’t remember for sure.
It’s so sad how the state abandoned that building- they made so many budget cuts that they stopped manning the building with park staff and expected to keep it open with volunteers. That shows how little state government in Atlanta knows, understands, or cares about little rural places like Fargo. People there have to work for a living at mostly meager wages and don’t have time to volunteer on the scale needed to keep it open. And the building had some amazing local history about Fargo and the Swamp (I’m originally from Fargo and Clinch County).
I hope not. I have visited Stephen Foster SP twice and it was lovely. I particularly remember a canoe trip to Billy’s Island and the visitor center at the State Park.